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The Quick Pitch: Mere yards from the strenuously on-trend Church Key and Eveleigh restaurants sits this restrained Italian dining room in the former Osteria Drago space, which, despite its simple modern decor, in its menu hardly betrays a knowledge of what year it is. Chef Christian Simionato draws on a deep stock of imported ingredients, from prosciutto to truffles – conveniently, his financial backers are some of L.A.’s best-connected luxury food importers and distributors – to turn out quietly confident, precisely rendered takes on panzanella salads, handmade pastas and tiramisu.
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The Insider’s Dish: A decade ago, the address reigned as record industry redoubt Il Sole under the stewardship of concert promoter Andy Hewitt and top music manager Arnold Stiefel.
The Must-Order Item: Impossibly tender lamb chops with rustic roasted potatoes.
The Industry Neighbor: Devo co-founder Mark Mothersbaugh’s music production company Mutato Muzika is across the street.
8741 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310-657-1182, albacioristorante.com
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