Editor’s picks from New York Fashion Week A/W 2015: womenswear collections

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By Jack Moss

last updated 22 July 2022

Fisherman's knits and fringed blanket trims met Mark Rothko-inspired sun bleached stripes, printed on washed cottons — **Baja East:** Hailing from the market bazaars of Morocco, fisherman's knits and fringed blanket trims met Mark Rothko-inspired sun bleached stripes, printed on washed cottons and destined for the modern desert nomad.

Pink satchel and backpack in one on countertop next to proteas and sunflowers — **Mansur Gavriel:** The New Yorkers debuted the 'Lady' bag - a satchel and backpack in one, which was quite a sight for winter-weary eyes

Glamorous shoe collection viewed from The Standard hotel's Boom Boom Room with a selection of designer shoes on a round glass table — **Paul Andrew:** The accessory designer used the skyline of downtown Manhattan (viewed from The Standard hotel's Boom Boom Room) as a backdrop to present his glamorous shoe collection. From architectural heels to fringed boots, the statement-making designs are not for shrinking violets

Golden antique carpet job created by Tory Burch — **Tory Burch:** Nothing gets us going early in the morning like a custom carpet job at a fashion show. Here, Tory Burch's Moroccan inspired show was lined with antique rugs

American sportswear classics by Tommy Hilfiger — **Tommy Hilfiger:** The man himself took us through his milestone 30th anniversary collection that phoned in on American sportswear classics…

A collection of Ali MacGraw circa Love story combined with American football — **Tommy Hilfiger:** The collection heavily referenced Ali MacGraw circa *Love story* entwined with his country's obsession with American football.

A Nineties colourful hip-hop vibe turned into utility sportswear — **Rag & Bone:** David Neville and Marcus Wainwright worked a Nineties hip-hop vibe into their utility sportswear that was fused with some serious street cred for A/W 2015. Vinyl-coated wool pencil skirts worn over pants flashed us right back to the TLC and Salt-N-Pepa era, where the puffer was cast as coat of honour.

Glamourous loosely woven overlays over Dion Lee's bodycon silhouettes — **Dion Lee:** The Australian designer went with his signature bodycon silhouettes, sculpting languid, asymmetric shapes this season. Loosely woven overlays gave looks an undone yet architectural quality, which ensured that Lee's high octane glamour still shone through

On the left a beautiful tailored black luxurious suit and on the right a little more casual cream tailored outfit — **The Row:** You could say that the Olsen twins had us at hello, given that their A/W show was held on the 35th floor of Ludwig Mies van der Rohe's Seagram Building. The collection also paid homage to New York, where the pair will soon open a flagship store, their luxurious tailoring cut with a luxe, city slicker austerity

A collection of imagery that makes up Jones' new exhibition — **Opening Ceremony:** Humberto Leon and Carol Lim mined friend and collaborator Spike Jones' prolific personal photo album for A/W's prints, which documented the rise of skate subcultures and Jones' work with Sonic Youth and The Beastie Boys. The imagery also makes up Jones' new exhibition, 'Please Use Your Best Judgement', that's now on show at New York's Cheim & Read gallery and curated by Leon and Lim

Womenswear with a monochrome palette and a lesson in utilitarian layering — **Public School:** Designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne's womenswear collection picked up from where the pair's menswear left off, with a monochrome palette and a lesson in utilitarian layering.

Two males modelling casual black outfits and the model on the right wears a touch of red on his shoes — **Public School:** The pair picked up the latest Woolmark Award in January of this year in London.

Cocktail dresses offering Native American patterns into leather — **Prabal Gurung**: Given that New York is suffering from the coldest weather in 20 years, Prabal Gurung's line-up of excellent outerwear hit all the right notes, while his feminine cocktail offering worked Native American patterns into leather, as skirts were split thigh high.

A psychedelic backdrop with beautiful Autumn and Winter colours — **Thakoon:** A psychedelic backdrop was only the beginning for Thakoon's bohemian A/W collection...

A clever array of patchwork wool coats, crinkled lamé skirts and velvet tunics dressed in tapestry prints — **Thakoon:** The New Yorker reworked 1970s favourites with newfound perspective, resulting in a clever array of patchwork wool coats, crinkled lamé skirts and velvet tunics dressed in tapestry prints.

A woman wearing a white coat and black boots next to two models wearing navy dresses and long boots — **Gabriela Hearst:** The American's inaugural womenswear collection put focus on the purpose behind each piece as fine materials were boosted by versatile functionalities

Mannequins jewelled with mirrored tiles, sequins and stones next to a golden woman swinging from the ceiling — **Prada:** The Italian brand presented the third chapter of its Iconoclasts project with a takeover of the Broadway Epicenter store by costume designers Michael Wilkinson and Tim Martin. Mannequins were jewelled with mirrored tiles, sequins and stones, which build upon the rich brocades of Mrs Prada's S/S 2015 collection, while a golden woman swinging from the ceiling cemented the scene's Seventies, mirrorball moment.

**Creatures of the Wind:** Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters put a fresh spin on Americana (stars and all). Seventies silhouettes were redone in sumptuous fabrics like metallic knits, organza brocades and fur, in tones of grey rose, pink and ecru, for a refined finish.

Models wearing a combination of heritage fabrics with bright pops of colour — **Polo Ralph Lauren:** The lifestyle brand proved that its trademark combination of heritage fabrics, soft tailoring and bright pops of colour are as captivating as ever. This season also brought the launch of the house's reinvigorated Polo Sport line, taking inspiration from rugby, soccer and American football

A women's collection that was inspired by the arte povera (poor art) movement and overflowed with subtle exposed details — **Protagonist:** It was all about bold, beautiful restraint at Protagonist's A/W show. The collection was inspired by the arte povera (poor art) movement and overflowed with subtle exposed details. Set designer Lucas Lefler installed a found door within the venue's industrial loft space and used classical furniture to evoke the domesticity of the avant-garde Italian art movement

A Valentine's heart-shaped set to welcome guest with cocktails and chocolates — **Moncler Grenoble:** Moncler well and truly got into the Valentine's Day spirit, welcoming guests with cocktails and Mon Chéri chocolates in addition to a heart-shaped set

**Visvim:** On the accessory trail craftsmanship was the name of the game courtesy of Visvim's hand-dyed denim umbrellas and illustrated hats

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Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.

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