The Holiday Issue

Edited by MARCUS SAMUELSSON

Bon Appetit's 2020 Holiday Issue, guest edited by chef Marcus Samuelsson

There’s no question: The holidays will look different this year. But there is power in embracing this change, in seeing this holiday season as an opportunity to try out something different and to create new memories. Which is why as guest editor I wanted to highlight the joy of the season with festive meals I hope you’ll recreate at home. For many of us, 2020 has been the most trying year of our lives. We all deserve to let our hair down. Let’s make sure to spend this season celebrating, reflecting, and looking forward.

—Marcus Samuelsson, guest editor

IN THIS ISSUE

Chef Marcus Samuelsson (right) with his wife, Maya Haile (middle), a model, philanthropist, and founder of Three Goats, and child, Zion (middle).

Something to Celebrate

Marcus Samuelsson reflects on the year with joy, gratitude, and an epic menu from his new cookbook, The Rise

reporting by KAYLA STEWART

photographs by JOSHUA KISSI

What does celebration look like this year? In a sign of the times, I invited a few neighborhood friends to Harlem for a socially distanced holiday party and asked others to join us on Zoom. I wanted us, as a community, to acknowledge making it to 2021. I served food from my new book, which showcases the diversity of Black excellence in cooking, something we should always celebrate. It was a moment for us to reflect on the struggles of the year—there were so many—but also its bright spots. It was a joyous occasion, and it’s exactly how I want to move into a new year.—Marcus Samuelsson

Note: We filmed this story over the summer, with COVID safety measures implemented and a COVID health & safety advisor on set taking temperatures, ensuring distancing, and mask wearing. The crew was masked the entire time, and the guests were photographed in individual photo sessions and only took their mask down when photographed. The people that were shot together are ones that are couples/families and live together. All portraits and food were photographed outside and from a safe distance. The story was edited together to appear as if everyone was around the same dinner table, but in reality it was a series of individual photo shoots (with the exception of members of the same household, who were photographed together). We advise following the CDC’s guidelines for safely gathering, and encourage people to gather virtually with the ones they love.

The Guest List

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Lana Turner, an icon of Harlem fashion—and wearer of incredible hats—who has worked in New York City real estate and art

Lana Turner An icon of Harlem fashion—and wearer of incredible hats—who has worked in New York City real estate and art.

Bevy Smith, a television personality, host of SiriusXM’s ‘Bevelations,’ and author of the forthcoming book, ‘Bevelations: Lessons from a Mutha, Auntie, Bestie.’

Bevy Smith Television personality, host of SiriusXM’s Bevelations, and author of the forthcoming book, Bevelations: Lessons from a Mutha, Auntie, Bestie.

Dapper Dan, a fashion designer and Harlem native who introduced high fashion to hip-hop

Dapper Dan Fashion designer and Harlem native who introduced high fashion to hip-hop.

Rakiem Walker, a composer, saxophonist, pianist, and leader of the Rakiem Walker Project

Rakiem Walker Composer, saxophonist, pianist, and leader of the Rakiem Walker Project.

Marcus Samuelsson, chef, restaurateur, cookbook author, philanthropist and food activist

Marcus Samuelsson Chef, cookbook author, and the host for the evening.

A portrait of guest Melba Wilson n in front of a yellow and blue fabric backdrop

Melba Wilson Cookbook author, president of the New York Hospitality Alliance, and founder of quintessential Harlem restaurant Melba’s.

Maya Haile, model, philanthropist, and founder of Three Goats

Maya Haile Model, philanthropist, and founder of Three Goats, which supports the health and well-being of vulnerable communities in Ethiopia. She and Samuelsson have been married since 2009.

Thelma Golden, director and chief curator of the Studio Museum in Harlem

Thelma Golden Director and chief curator of the Studio Museum in Harlem, where she has encouraged the exploration of race, culture, and community through art.

Gloria Ryann, lead vocalist of the Rakiem Walker Project and an artist-in-residence at the Red Rooster.

Gloria Ryann Lead vocalist of the Rakiem Walker Project and an artist-in-residence at the Red Rooster.

The Menu

On Unity

“My husband, Floyd Cardoz, was one of the kindest people. My hope for everybody is that we just continue to love, and just realize that we’re all the same. We’re one big universe with the same people.”

—Barkha Cardoz

On Kwanzaa

“Kwanzaa has always been about celebrating African-American culture, but this year it invites us to go inward, to realize that you’re alive in ways that you would not have realized before this year. Those seven days give us a chance to show our love, and to have hope.”

—LANA TURNER

Maison Noir's red wine "Other People’s Pinot Noir" is structured enough to hold its weight with dinner but bright and easy enough to drink on its own.

The Wine

Other People’s Pinot Noir from Maison Noir ($24) is structured enough to hold its weight with dinner but bright and easy enough to drink on its own before the big meal.

On Food

“We cook because it gives us joy to put a smile on someone’s face. Food is the common denominator. It doesn’t care about your ethnicity or pocketbook. The only thing it cares about is that you sit down, relax, and enjoy.”

—MELBA WILSON

A tall, multi-color layer cake with sparklers by Amirah Kassem of Flour Shop

Bake
This Cake

This over-the-top cake from Amirah Kassem of Flour Shop looks intense, but is actually pretty doable (no one else needs to know that). Here’s how to pull it off at home

Get the Recipe

Holiday Gifts

Because we have more people to show appreciation for than ever before

by MacKenzie Chung Fegan

photographs by Jessica Pettway

All products featured on Bon Appétit are independently selected by our editors. However, when you buy something through our retail links, we may earn an affiliate commission.

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Three aperitif bottles to drink right now from Faccia Brutto, Mommenpop, and Drink Ghia

These three new entries in the apéritif scene deliver on both style—those labels!—and substance. Swap Faccia Brutto for Campari to make citrusy Americanos with just a hint of cherry cola. $35; leonandsonswine.com. Ghia’s satisfyingly bitter, nonalcoholic apéritif is delicious with tonic. $33; drinkghia.com. And Mommenpop pairs California wine with California citrus for a sunny, juicy apéritif begging to be spritzed. $34; mommenpop.com

A bar of Casa Bosques dark chocolate with green filling

Why, designer Rafael Prieto wondered, do Belgium and Switzerland steal the chocolate spotlight when Mexico has such ancient traditions with cacao? He launched Casa Bosques Chocolates in response, working with chefs like Elena Reygadas to pair Latin American chocolate with blue maize, hoja santa, and cardamom. $12–$22; casabosques.co

Piera Bochner's rainbow-colored candles come in different shapes of fruits and vegetables

Piera Bochner learned mold making while training as a sculptor in Berlin, and after casting a candle mold from a romanesco, she knew she had found her muse. She scours the greenmarket for textural fruits and vegetables like bitter melon, sugar apple, and bumpy decorative gourds to make candles that are one part produce and one part NSFW. $35-$79; pierabochner.com

Two black Lolly Lolly mugs from ceramist Lalese Stamps

Ceramist Lalese Stamps was in a rut, so every day for 100 days, she challenged herself to make a different mug out of sleek black clay, fashioning unique handles for each. One resembles the rings of Saturn, another a tiny steering wheel, and a third sports spikes worthy of Bowser Koopa. These two suggest rainbows in monochrome. $52; lolly-lolly.com

Smallhold Blue Oyster Mushroom Grow Kit grows muchrooms from a block of mycellium

In 2020 we stockpiled beans and babied our sourdough starters, but nothing changed us quite like this Blue Oyster Mushroom Grow Kit. We watched with fascination as tiny capped heads sprouted, sometimes doubling in size throughout the day, until the largest ones neared the diameter of Eggo waffles. Nature is weird! But also delicious sauteed in butter. $34; smallhold.com

Stainless-steel mixing bowls designed by Sori Yanagi

Whether you’re prepping your mise en place or mixing up holiday cookies, this nesting set of stainless-steel bowls from Japanese mid-century industrial designer Sori Yanagi has you covered. They’re the perfect combo of form and function, and it’s no wonder pastry chef Ayako Kurokawa of Brooklyn bakery Burrow swears by them. $217; jinenstore.com

A large platter of fresh oysters on ice from Hog Island Oyster Co.

This year you may be sitting out the big, glitzy New Year’s Eve party, but there’s no reason you can’t have oysters and Champagne at home. Order a sack from Hog Island Oyster Co. and practice shucking from the comfort of your own couch. $75 for 36; hogislandoysters.com

Designer Tosha Stimage’s dead flower arrangements include this tall bouquet of bright pink leaves, grasses and blooms in a glass vase

The problem with flowers is that, like youth and Girl Scout cookie season, they don’t last forever. This is why we love artist and floral designer Tosha Stimage’s arrangements—they’re already dead! The Everlasting Mini showcases exuberant dyed pink blooms, magenta leaves, and fuchsia grasses, all dried and ready for long-term display. $28; saintflora.com

Two Ghanese woven baskets from Baba Tree Pakurigo Wave

Handcrafted by master artisans in northern Ghana, these Baba Tree Pakurigo Wave baskets are woven from durable vetiver grass. Their undulating, organic forms remind us of mollusk shells or pattypan squash run amok. Store picnic blankets and linens in the larger one, which measures 17 inches across, and use the smaller, 12-inch basket for your winter clementine stash. $85-$200; babatree.com

More Gift Ideas Right This Way
Atlanta pastry chef Claudia Martinez’s shares her family's recipe for hallacas, a meaty Venezuelan tamale

It’s Not Christmas Without Hallacas

Proof that good things come in small packages: the meaty Venezuelan tamales that Atlanta pastry chef Claudia Martinez’s family has been making for generations

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photographs by YUDI ELA

Comfort Cookies

However you choose to celebrate (or endure) the holidays this year, one thing is clear: You deserve a cookie. So we dug into our personal archives, drawing on our most nostalgic, security-blanket-esque cookie memories and updating the recipes for right now—when we need them most

photographs by Laura Murray

A grid of Pretzel and Potato Chip Moon Pies Pretzel and Potato Chip Moon Pie recipe from Sohla El-Waylly

Pretzel and Potato Chip Moon Pies

Little Debbie’s chocolate marshmallow pies were my favorite treat as a kid. These moon pies, made of chocolate-dipped shortbread cookies loaded with toasty pretzels and salty potato chips, satisfy that same toasty-bittersweet craving, but for a (slightly) more grown-up palette. —SOHLA EL-WAYLLY

Get the Recipe
A row of dark brown Coffee Hazelnut Biscotti Coffee Hazelnut Biscotti recipe from Carla Lalli Music

Coffee-Hazelnut Biscotti

The biscotti is the primo anti-gooey-chewy cookie, and the perfect vehicle for all my preferred dessert flavors: coffee, chocolate, and nuts. These are crisp-tender and far from rock-hard, but still sturdy enough to dunk in amaro, bourbon, or cold milk. —CARLA LALLI MUSIC

Get the Recipe
A pile of diamond-shaped Brown Butter and Pistachio Sables Brown Butter and Pistachio Sables recipe from Molly Baz

Brown Butter and Pistachio Sables

Crumbly, sugar-dusted Greek kourabiedes are my household’s usual Christmas staple, but not this year. Subbing pistachios for walnuts, bay leaves for cloves, and a sugar glaze for powdered sugar, the results look nothing like the original. Something tells me the fam won’t mind. —MOLLY BAZ

Get the Recipe
Cutting out pig-shapped marranitos enfiestados cookies Marranitos enfiestados cookies recipe from Rick Martinez

Marranitos Enfiestados

The popular Mexican cookies get a Beyoncé-inspired cow print of two ginger-spiced doughs: one with traditional piloncillo (a dark cane sugar with a smoky molasses-caramel flavor) and one with agave syrup. Don’t forget sanding sugar, because these piggies came to party. —RICK MARTINEZ

Get the Recipe
A close-up show of a Tahini Linzer Torte Bar Tahini Linzer Torte Bars recipe by Sarah Jampel

Tahini Linzer Torte Bars

This recipe combines the utility of a Fig Newton with the elegance of another jam-filled dessert, the linzer torte. Tahini makes for a rich, buttery crust that’s layered with jam, topped with a “fake” lattice, and then cut into big, unbreakable (USPS-friendly) bars. —SARAH JAMPEL

Get the Recipe
Nan-E Berenji cookies on a magenta background Nan-E Berenji cookie recipe from Andy Baraghani

Nan-E Berenji

My preference for savory means I usually pass on the Persian confections my family loves. Not so with this nan-e berenji, a delicate rice flour cookie that incorporates black sesame, pistachio, and freeze-dried raspberries to tame the traditional cardamom and rose water notes. —ANDY BARAGHANI

Get the Recipe
Rows of Ginger-Citrus Cookies Ginger-Citrus Cookie recipe from Marcus Samuelsson

Ginger-Citrus Cookies

My grandmother Helga and I used to make a version of this recipe together every holiday season. The fragrant spices in the gingersnap dough against the bitterness of the chopped candied orange peels are exactly what I want this time of the year. —MARCUS SAMUELSSON

Get the Recipe
Rows of chocolate pizzettes Pizzette cookie recipe from Chris Morocco

Pizzettes

With their fudgy texture, piercing bittersweet chocolate, almonds, citrus zest, and heady undertone of cinnamon and clove, there’s nothing better than this upgrade of my grandmother’s famous pizzettes. Buttery and rich, yet balanced…who wouldn’t want a bite of that? —CHRIS MOROCCO

Get the Recipe

Special Delivery for... Janelle Monáe

As part of a new series, Table 13, Marcus Samuelsson talks to the Turntables singer about the four stages of quarantine, eating on tour, and a cross-country gift box

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What's in the Box

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This rose gold Calpak Baye Hat box is full of personal gifts Marcus Samuelsson selected for actor Janelle Monáe

We may not be flying much this year, but our favorite presents are. With that in mind, Marcus sent Janelle a rose gold Calpak Baye hat box filled with curated gifts he knew she’d love. $125; calpaktravel.com

Stevie Wonder's 1976 album, Songs in the Key of Life in vinyl

Everything sounds better in vinyl—especially Songs in the Key of Life, the 1976 album from the great Stevie Wonder, one of Janelle’s all-time-favorite musicians. $43; amazon.com

A denim ruffle face mask from the brand 69 in Los Angeles

One good-looking way to protect yourself these days is this denim ruffle face mask from 69 in Los Angeles. Even better: 100 percent of profits go to support the racial justice organization Color of Change. $25; sixty-nine.us

A red-and-white Kansas City Monarchs baseball hat

A vintage baseball hat repping Janelle’s hometown of Kansas City, Kansas—home of the National Negro League’s wildly successful team, the Monarchs. Before Jackie Robinson signed with the Dodgers, he made his home with KC.

The 22k gold Nightclub Map of Harlem candle from local New York City maker Harlem Candle Company

This limited-edition design renders illustrator E. Simms Campbell’s Jazz Age map of Harlem's nightclubs in 22k gold. As Marcus says, “It’s a proud candle. It speaks to the neighborhood it’s made in.” $60; harlemcandlecompany.com

Miso chocolate chip cookie recipe from Ginny's Supper Club in Harlem

Something sweet to cap it all off: An ooey-gooey miso chocolate chip cookie straight from Ginny’s Supper Club, Marcus’s slinky cocktail lounge and restaurant under Red Rooster. Make them at home with this recipe.

The four holiday cocktail recipes bartenders recommend drinking in 2020

Time for a Toast

A holiday cocktail can go in just about any direction, which is why we asked some of our favorite booze professionals to make us, well, whatever they wanted to make us for the holidays

Get the Recipes

as told to ALEX DELANY

photographs by YUDI ELA

Chef Brandon Jew at his restaurant Mister Jiu’s in San Francisco

Restaurants Restore Us. Can We Restore Them?

Restaurant workers look back to the year that turned the industry upside down—and what it could take to turn it around

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by Ashlea Halpern

photograph by PEDEN + MUNK

Chef and wellness advocate Sophia Roe shares a few of her favorite recipes

A Healthyish Break With Sophia Roe

A celebratory season doesn’t mean sacrificing good-for-you food—take a cue from this chef and wellness advocate (and one of the busiest people we know)

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Zak the Baker's vegan leek latkes

Not Our Mother’s Latkes

With crisp outsides, creamy insides, and a subtle sweetness from tons of blanched leeks, these latkes from Zak the Baker might not be what you’re used to—and that’s a good thing

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Derrick Adam's ‘MLK’s Tropic Interlude' painting, mixed media on paper

Revolution and Repose

Artist Derrick Adams and poet Nikki Giovanni reflect on the connection between civil rights and relaxation

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Artist Julie Mehretu's ‘Hineni II (E. 3:4)’

A Closing Note

Artwork by Julie Mehretu inspires Marcus to look back on the year

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